Mother Earthbeats

Such outstanding Beauty as Antrim must be shared

Whilst searching through the land to find that which I deem worthy of mention, amongst the most beautiful of lands I discovered the Antrim Coast and Glens. The nine famous glens, endowed with evocative names and blessed with a diversity of landscape are also rich in history, in folklore and in the natural beauty that is a world away from the frantic bustle of modern life.

The coastline of County Antrim from Ballycastle to Larne and the world famous Glens of Antrim contain some of the most beautiful and varied scenery in Northern Ireland. The area is dominated by a high undulating plateau cut by deep glens which open north and eastwards to the sea. It is an area of contrasts: gentle bays are separated by blunt headlands; exposed moorland gives way to sheltered valleys; wide open expanses to enclosed farmland.

Entwined amongst the rich history and traditions of the communities within these mysterious glens is the constant sense of a dual landscape; one of breathtaking nautral drama and beauty that opens up as you negotiate the hills and bends, and another more hidden landscape of mists and myths, of legends and folklore and tales of giants, fairies and other wonderful creatures. Let us explore them all.

Glenaan – The glen of the colt’s foot or rush lights, a rugged glen – having the site of the legendary Ossian’s grave, with the Cushendall-Ballymoney mountain road. The Celtic poet Ossian is said to have resisted St Patrick, arguing that Christianity was too strict for the exuberant Gaels.

Glenarm – The glen of the army, with Glenarm village, eleven miles north of Larne, on the famous Causeway Coastal Route. The oldest of the villages, with narrow streets leading to Glenarm Forest with its paths and waterfalls. A gold and Silversmith’s workshop and a pottery in the village are worth a visit. Glenarm Castle, with a striking resemblance to the Tower of London, is the home of the Earl of Antrim.

Glenariff – The arable or fertile glen, the best-known of the nine as the ‘Queen of the Glens’, sweeps majestically towards the village of Waterfoot. A series of waterfalls plunge down through a gorge traversed by rustic bridges. One cascade has the name ‘tears of the mountain’. The park is also a national nature reserve with easy access to a caravan and camp site. There is a wonderful view from the visitor centre down the glen which Thackeray described as a ‘Switzerland in miniature’. Waterfoot is the village at the foot of Glenariff, by lovely Red Bay, so called because of the reddish sand washed by streams from the sandstone. Fishing boats can be hired at the harbour here. There is a series of caves in the Cliffs, which were once inhabited, with the fragmentary ruins of Red Bay Castle above.

Glenballyeamon – Edwardstown glen, at the foot of which is Cushendall – more or less at the centre of the nine glens. Tieveragh Hill is supposed to be the capital of the fairies (living inside it). Above the village soars the table-top mountain of Lurigethan.

Glencorp – The glen of the slaughtered, close by Glenaan and roughly parallel to the main road from Cushendall to Cushendun. A prominent round hill on the east slope of Glencorp is called Tieveragh. This is famed as the home of multitudes of fairies, said to emerge in a procession on May Eve (30 April). Those who doubt the existence of the little folk will not see them, for they reveal themselves only to believers.

Glencloy – The glen of the hedges, two miles north of Glenarm, with the village of Carnlough at its foot. Lying about 14 miles north of Larne, this glen takes its name from the stone ditches in the upper glen and on Garron mountain. Some of these have been shown to date from the Bronze Age. The main village is Carnlough (population about 1000) stretching along most of the bay. A further 500-600 people live in the upper glen. Archaeological excavations at Bay Farm have uncovered evidence of Neolithic occupation (around 4000 B.C.) and further excavations in the same general area uncovered a Bronze Age settlement dated between 2000 and 1500 B.C.

Glendun – The glen of the brown river, adjacent to Cushendun village; spanned by a viaduct on the main Cushendall-Ballycastle road.

Glenshesk – A pleasant glen lying on the eastern side of Knocklayde mountain opening out to the sea at Ballycastle. It is quite easy to visit and explore this glen and Glentaise in the course of a couple of days. Like Glentaisie, on the other side of Knocklayde, it is also full of historic lore and at its foot lie the ruins of the Franciscan Friary of Bunamargy which was built for the friars by the local chieftain, Rory MacQuillan in 1485. As a result of a few fierce battles it became the property of the MacDonnell Clan who had no qualms about setting fire to the friary when it was occupied by the English forces under the command of Sir William Stanley in 1584. This glen is peppered with standing stones marking the burial places of saintly men and women and of brave clan leaders killed in battle. A castle in Drumenia is called after Goban Saoer who is celebrated in folklore as the icon of all skilled builders and craftsmen. Folklore – You do not have to travel far in County Antrim to encounter Finn MacCool, whether in his legendary giant form or as a Celtic warrior. In the latter guise he is said to have slain his favourite hunting dog Bran in Glenshesk – at a spot now known as Doonfin – during an incident in the pursuit of deer. Hunting features frequently in tales of Finn and his band of fighters, the Fianna, and Finn’s two dogs, Bran and Skolawn, are recorded as being a type of greyhound, but no doubt larger and heavier than today’s refined racing dogs.

Glentaisie – The most northerly of the nine glens and, lying as it does at the foot of Knocklayde mountain, is probably the most sheltered. It is about five miles long and opens out to a fine sandy beach at the beautiful historic town of Ballycastle. named after the Princess Taisie, the daughter of King Dorm of Rathlin Island. According to legend, Taisie, renowned for her great beauty, was bethrothed to Congal, heir to the Kingdom of Ireland. The king of Norway also sought her hand in marriage, and when he arrived to claim his bride her wedding celebrations to Congal were underway. The King of Norway and his army tried to capture Taisie but in the subsequent battle he was killed and his army fled leaderless and empty handed. More recent history deals with the arrival of the MacDonnell Clan from Scotland and even more recent is the fact that the first ever wireless message across a stretch of water was transmitted by Guglielmo Marconi from Ballycastle to Rathlin in 1898.

Surely the lands of Northern Ireland are of great interest to me, and I am of a mind to visit soon. To take part in the festivities and explore the glens, the lands of my ancestors, is a desire I cannot resist. I cannot possibly even properly express the beauty and wonder of such places without a personal visit. Surely these places must be experienced in person to allow our spirits to absorb the magnificence and mystery of the natural creations on this earth. I hope you enjoy a glimpse into this Place of Outstanding Natural Beauty which is just a small part of our Mother Earth.

Further Study and Information

Here is a Guide to the Glens of Antrim. Can you separate truth from myth?